IN ORDER TO NOT MAKE ANY MORE WRONG NAMES FOR YOUR SHOES, HERE ARE THE MOST WIDESPREAD SHAPES YOU SHOULD KNOW
1 - THE "DERBY"
A Derby is characterized by its lacing system.
The quarters are sewn on the vamp and therefore leave the guards free as "ears".
This allows a larger opening of the footwear, well suited to feet with a strong kick.
THE IT11 MODEL IS AN EXAMPLE OF DERBY
> MODEL AROUND THE DERBY
MODEL IT06 IS AN EXAMPLE OF DERBY GUILLIES
- Derby "Guillies"
This model of lacing "under tubes" is called "Guillies".
2 - THE "RICHELIEU" ("OXFORD" IN ENGLISH)
To recognize a Oxford at first glance, just look at its lacing.
On this shoe, the guarantors are not free and are sewn under the vamp.
The lacing is said to be closed giving a V-shaped opening which sometimes poses a problem for putting on this shoe in the event of a too strong instep.
The Richelieu is undoubtedly one of the most elegant shoe models because it has few visible seams.
MODEL FR02 IS AN EXAMPLE OF RICHELIEU
> MODELS AROUND THE RICHELIEU
MODEL IT01 IS AN EXAMPLE OF "One cut" RICHELIEU
- The Oxford One-Cut (or whole cut)
This Richelieu variant has no visible seams.
This shoe of rare elegance also allows the most free patinas because the work of the artist is not hampered by any demarcation.
A One-Cut Oxford is made with a single piece of leather and therefore requires a skill that is very difficult for a Bootmaker to acquire.
MODEL EN01 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A RICHELIEU WITH A CHEST
- Bib Oxford
This Richelieu model is without guarantors: the eyelets are arranged on a separate piece of leather called the breastplate.
This breastplate is then sewn onto the upper.
In this particular case, the upper (the front of the shoe) and the quarters (rear side part of the shoe) are present on a single and unique piece.
THE FR05 MODEL IS AN EXAMPLE OF A BALMORAL RICHELIEU
- Richelieu Balmoral
A Balmoral Oxford is characterized by its guards which extend to the back and "circle" in a way the top of the shoe
THE IT10 MODEL IS AN EXAMPLE OF A GOLF TIP RICHELIEU
- Richelieu Bout Golf (Wingtip Oxford)
This variant also has a piece of leather added to the end of the shoe, but this time it draws a "W".
This model is also called "Brogue"
MODEL CR02 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A STRAIGHT TOE BROCHURE
- the Cap Toe Oxford
On this variant, a piece of leather is added to the front to form the "straight end".
This stretch can also be simulated by stitching the leather.
3 - MODELS WITH BUCKLES (MONK SHOES IN ENGLISH)
These shoes do not have a lacing system.
In their construction, models with buckles (single, double or even triple) are identical to a derby except that the laces have been replaced by straps which close with buckles.
Considered less elegant than a Oxford – because of the metal buckles – they are currently making a big comeback with shoe lovers because they offer a happy medium between formal and relaxed.
MODEL EN04 IS AN EXAMPLE OF DOUBLE LOOPS
> MODELS AROUND THE "DOUBLE-LOOPS"
MODEL FX02 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A SINGLE LOOP
- The Single Buckle
On this variant, a simple buckle has been added for a touch of modern elegance.
MODEL EX02 IS AN EXAMPLE OF Double-loop Cross
- The double "Cross" loops
On this variant with a Cross sole, the double buckles reinforce the solidity of the whole.
4 - THE MOCASSIN (LOAFER IN ENGLISH
Everyone agrees that moccasins are probably the oldest shoes in the world, most often associated with American Indians.
We often associate moccasins with relaxation and this is quite normal since originally it was this idea that guided the way it was designed:
As a general rule, moccasins do not have laces which makes it easier to put on.
Moccasins can have their own decorations that are not seen on other models:
- an often pierced leather bar called "Penny Loafer"
- decorative tassels
MODEL CR04 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A "Penny loafer" MOCCASIN
> MODELS AROUND THE "MOCCASIN"
MODEL FR07 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A MOCCASIN WITH POMPONS
- the Moccasin with Pompoms
Example of Moccasin "with pompoms"
The pompoms can be given a different color patina and reflect your personality.
These days, moccasins are no longer exclusively casual shoes and can be made with stronger construction and quality leathers in order to have a much longer lifespan.
MODEL EN07 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A LACE-UP MOCCASIN
- the Loafer with Laces
This model is also called "boat"
5 - SLIPPERS
it is a shoe halfway between moccasins and slippers.
This form of shoe is making a comeback for its elegance and sleek design.
Often made in One cut varnish or not...
MODEL EN08 IS AN EXAMPLE OF SLIPPERS
6 - HIGH SHOES (BOOTS, BOOTS)
Here we illustrate the different categories of high-top shoes...
Due to its particularity of having elastics on the sides, these boots are very easy to put on and take off.
- CHELSEA Boots
MODEL EN10 IS AN EXAMPLE OF CHELSEA BOOTS
> MODELS AROUND BOOTS
MODEL IT04 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A ZIPPERED ANKLE BOOT
- The zipper boot
Zippered Chelsea boots.
Also called Zipped ankle boot.
MODEL EN06 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A BALMORAL ANKLE BOOT
- The Balmoral Boot
On this variant, a piece of leather goes around the entire shoe.
This model is a Balmoral lace-up ankle boot.
THE EX03 MODEL IS AN EXAMPLE OF A UP DERBY
- the Boot (or rising Derby)
On this variant, a piece of leather is added to the front to form the "straight end".
This stretch can also be simulated by stitching the leather.
MODEL CR02 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A STRAIGHT TOE BROCHURE
- Button boots or Gaiter boots
Also called Gaiter, the upper part is generally (the one on which the buttons are located) made of a different material.
MODEL IT05 IS AN EXAMPLE OF CHUKKA BOOTS
CHUKKA BOOTS
Great classic of boots.
It can be classic or sporty depending on the expression of the patina...
MODEL EN03 IS AN EXAMPLE OF A JODHPUR BOOT
- The JODHPUR ankle boot
You can recognize a Jodhpur – which was originally designed for riding – by the strap that is used to tighten the shoe at the ankle.
