Connaître les différents montages de Souliers...

Know the different shoe assemblies...

As you already know, sewn is much better than glued. It is a more durable assembly and is easily resoled. A good quality shoe can always be sent back to the brand to change the sole (and more): you can for example remove the heel and undo the sole.
In the most extreme cases, you can also change the insole and the welt. The basic last is then used to remake the shoe.
Such a process is easily repeated: a very good pair of shoes, well maintained and worn with good rotation, can last 10 to 20 years. Some even manage to wear them for forty years.


It's a bit like the sole of the first real men's shoes, not because of its more masculine and raw line, but rather thanks to a very long lifespan.



© CTC –

The Goodyear leather is waterproof thanks to the welt: water cannot penetrate the insole.
The welt does not connect the upper, the insole and the outsole at the same time. It can therefore easily be replaced.
It also contains cork padding that easily takes the shape of the foot, much like a custom bed.
This type of assembly was made possible by Charles Goodyear Jr, the son of the inventor of Goodyear tires. He designed the tripod machine that allowed the industrialization of this construction.
However, the Goodyear mounts of the biggest houses are handmade: the width is much more worked and we have a narrower, sculpted and beveled line. done by hand for several hours.


In the case of a waterproof shoe, the construction is different. There are several methods, including the reverse seam and the Norwegian assembly


© CTC –

The principle of these assemblies is that the upper is turned towards the outside of the shoe and the welt is on the outside. As a result, water penetrates the sole and the shoe much more difficultly.
They are usually recognized by a double or triple row of stitching on the outside of the shoe, at the intersection of the upper and the sole.



© CTC –

Blake mounted shoes have an upper, an insole and an outsole: on the other hand, they do not have a welt. The insole (flat, no cork) and the upper are attached to the last. Then the sole is glued. Only a single row of machine stitching is used to attach the sole, insole and upper together. The advantage of the method: it is that it allows to have a light and thin sole, and therefore a more slender shape.

You can easily recognize a Blake assembly by looking inside the shoe: if the insole has not been completely covered, then you will find a single row of Blake stitching right through the shoe.